The subtitle of this book is “The Social and Economic History of a Famous Trade”. I had no idea the history of the tea trade in Britain was so fascinating. The author, Denys Forrest was a writer and journalist before changing careers and working in the tea industry. Consequently he was uniquely qualified to write this book.
Forrest has researched the papers of the English East India Company and those of various tea companies in Britain. He begins with recounting how tea first started to arrive in the country. Early traders found tea in China where it was grown on bushes and then the leaves were harvested and brought to Europe in chests on ships.
At first tea was believed to have had medicinal purposes so it was found in chemist shops. When Catherine of Braganza came to England to marry King Charles II, she introduced the drinking of tea for non-medicinal purposes at the Stuart court. The trade grew and the EEC set up a building in Mincing Lane to receive and auction tea shipments. The tea was sold in coffee shops and then grocers. Demand became astronomical. China limited how much trade could be done in their country so enterprising merchants brought the seeds of tea bushes to India and later Ceylon (Sri Lanka) and began growing it there to meet the demand. Later tea was grown in Africa and even South America. The EEC lost its monopoly in the nineteenth century and the trade in tea was opened up afterwards.
Forrest explains the different grades of tea leaves and how the tea came to be sold and consumed and innovations in the industry. The story of how tea came to be put in teabags is really interesting. There are lots of statistics in this book like how much tea was auctioned for and how much housewives paid for it in shops and stores, and how much tea was consumed per person in Britain. There are stories about shops in Liverpool, Manchester, Glasgow, Edinburgh and Norwich and histories of different vendors.
Forrest really knows his tea! And he tells us about it with a really light touch and a keen sense of humor. This book was published in 1973 and sadly that’s where the story ends. He laments the invention of iced tea and wonders what will happen to the drinking of tea as the consumption in Britain had declined as the book ended. I enjoyed this book very much.